Pasold Research Fund and CHORD joint conference

Distribution Networks for Textiles and Dress, C. 1700-1945

Date8 - 9 September 2010
Provisional Programme

8 September 2010

  • 9:30 - 10:30 Registration and Coffee
  • 10:30 - 11:15 Welcome and Plenary 1 - Dilys Blum, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Elsa Schiaparelli and the American Market
  • 11:30 -13:00 Clothing Cultures 
  • Paper 1: Susan Vincent, University of York, ‘Please can you obtain for me?’: shopping by proxy
  • Paper 2: Christine Ruane, University of Tulsa, The retailing of dress in Imperial Russia
  • Paper 3: Jennifer Le Zotte, University of Virginia, Selling salvation and gouging goodwill: the shift in charitable ideals in the early twentieth century United States 
  • 11:30 - 13:00 Fashion and taste in eighteenth-century Europe
  • Paper 1: Bruno Blondé and Laura Van Aert, University of Antwerp, Au Magasin de Paris. Retailing textiles and changing consumer practices in eighteenth-century Antwerp
  • Paper 2: Jon Stobart, University of Northampton, Taste and textiles: selling fashion in eighteenth-century provincial England
  • Paper 3: Natacha Coquery, University of Nantes, Luxury, market, fashion and revolution.  Textile advertisements in the Journal of Paris, 1790-1794 
  • 13:00-14:00 Lunch
  • 14.00 - 15.30 Colonial commerce
  • Paper 1: Robert S. DuPlessis, Swarthmore College, Gender and textile retailing in the eighteenth-century British and French Atlantic
  • Paper 2: Damayanthie Eluwawalage, State University of New York, Oneonta, International comparisons: advertising of clothing in the nineteenth-century Western Australia
  • Paper 3: Dianne Lawrence, University of Lancaster, ‘In a hot climate a pretty frock is a great asset’: finding, changing and exchanging dress in colonial societies
  • 14.00 - 15.30 Chair: Lesley Whitworth, University of Brighton Design Archives, Advertising, merchandising and branding
  • Paper 1: Clare Rose, The pre-history of brands: branding before 1914
  • Paper 2: Claire Nally, University of Sunderland, Fashion as freedom: the flapper phenomenon and advertising culture in twentieth-century Dublin
  • Paper 3: Rebecca Arnold, Courtauld Institute of Art, Selling sportswear: fashion, retail and ready-to-wear in 1930s New York
  • 15.30 - 16.00 Coffee
  • 16.00 - 17.30 Royal and aristocratic wardrobes
  • Paper 1: Tracey Wedge, University of Southampton, Fit to be seen by the Queen: The mechanisms of procurement for the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3-1588)
  • Paper 2: Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, Supplying Charles II: an analysis of the network of suppliers working for the king’s wardrobe of the robes (1660-1685)
  • Paper 3: Kate Strasdin, University of Southampton, Royal retail: Queen Alexandra and her acquisition of dress (1863-1910)
  • 16.00 - 17.30 Distribution and transport
  • Paper 1: Nadia Fernández de Pinedo Echevarría, Universidad Autónoma de Madrid and Emiliano Fernández de Pinedo Fernández, Universidad del País Vasco, An approach to the distribution of foreign textiles in the Spanish market at the beginning of the eighteenth century
  • Paper 2: Victoria Mitchell,  Norwich University College of the Arts, From pattern sample to wedding dress: an example from eighteenth century Norwich

    Paper 3: Pia Lundqvist and Anna Brismark, University of Gothenburg, A diversified distribution of textiles in 19th century Sweden

  • circa 20.00 Conference dinner, Novotel Hotel

9 September 2010

  • 9.30 - 11.00 Second-hand textiles and clothing in early-modern Europe
  • Paper 1: Sara Pennell, Roehampton University, Making the bed in early eighteenth-century England
  • Paper 2: Georg Stoeger, University of Salzburg, Urban markets for used clothing – examples from eighteenth-century Central Europe
  • Paper 3: Dries Lyna & Ilja Van Damme, University of Antwerp, The circulation of used textiles and clothing: the function of auction sales within the distribution networks of the Southern Netherlands (17th-19th centuries)
  • 9.30 - 11.00 Fashion
  • Paper 1: Seija Johnson, K.H. Renlund - Central Ostrobothnia Provincial Museum, Kokkola, Finland; University of Jyväskylä, Finland, International trade and fashion in a Finnish port town in 1750-1870
  • Paper 2: Stefanie Watzka, Johannes Gutenberg University of Mainz, Tailor’s dummy or business woman? – the actress and fashion in the late 19th century
  • Paper 3: Maria Nesterova, State University of cinema and television, Saint-Petersburg, The “trophy” garments as way to change the image of Soviet people
  • 11.00 - 11.30 Plenary 2  - Lesley Miller, Victoria & Albert Museum, Material Marketing: How Lyonnais Silk Manufacturers Sold Silks, 1660-1789
  • 11.30 - 12.00 Coffee
  • 12.00 - 13.00 Commercial spaces
  • Paper 1: Peter McNeil and Paula Hamilton, University of Technology Sydney, Culture, Work and Economy in the Surry Hills (Sydney) Clothing Trades c1900-1945
  • Paper 2: Bronwen Edwards, Leeds Metropolitan University, 'Am I to understand that you actually have a branch shop on the Aquitania?' British menswear retailers and the transatlantic market place in the mid twentieth century
  • 12.00 - 13.00 Consumption
  • Paper 1: Beatrice Zucca Micheletto, University of Turin, Selling the goods of the marriage trousseau: a shame or a resource? The role of textile goods in household economy in 18th century Turin
  • Paper 2: Yuki Yamauchi, Hitotsubashi University, Why was Meisen, Japan's traditional working clothe, accepted well in the market as everyday clothes and stylish garments between1900 to1930?
  • 13.00 - 14.00 Lunch
  • 14.00 - 15.30 Demand and desire in the African textile trade, c.1700-1900
  • Paper 1: Colleen Kriger, University of North Carolina, Cotton currencies and multi-lateral trade, Upper Guinea coast, ca. 1700
  • Paper 2: Pedro Machado, Indiana University, Mobile threads: cloth, South Asia and Africa in the Western Indian Ocean in the 18th and 19th centuries
  • Paper 3: Samuel Sanchez, Laboratoire SEDET, Université de Paris-Diderot, Paris, Textile trading networks in Western Madagascar, 19th to the early 20th centuries
  • Paper 4: Sarah Fee, Royal Ontario Museum, Beyond Indian cottons: the trade in Omani cloth and fibers to Madagascar and the Western Indian Ocean, 1750-1900
  • 14.00 - 15.30 Art, marketing and display
  • Paper 1: Jeanie Sinclair, Royal College of Art, Cryséde: interwar innovations in fashion retail
  • Paper 2: Stephanie Amerian, University of California, Los Angeles, The art of selling style at Lord & Taylor, 1924-1945

    Paper 3: Lesley Whitworth, University of Brighton Design Archives, The American notebooks: Natasha Kroll's 1948 US retail research trip


University of Wolverhampton
Wolverhampton Science Park
Glaisher Drive
WV10 9RUk

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Further Information

The Pasold Research Fund all abstracts, information for fees, accommodation, registration & bursaries etc.



Dr Laura Ugolini
University of Wolverhampton
Millennium City Building
Room MC334

Tel: 01902 321890